In the heart of Lagos, far from the glitter of fashion runways, there’s a different kind of craftsmanship unfolding, one that begins with the smell of raw leather and the quiet rhythm of sewing machines tucked into small, sun-warmed spaces.
Inside these tight quarters, artisans lean over cutting tables, sketching soles and shaping dreams.
Each stitch, each polish, carries the weight of patience and precision, the kind that transforms fabric into something worthy of a client’s name.
This is the world of bespoke shoemaking: deeply personal, increasingly in demand, yet harder than ever to enter.
Victory Johnson is one of those who once saw a future in the craft. As an undergraduate about five years ago in 2020, he spent his free time learning how to make shoes, stitching neat pairs for friends, and nurturing a dream of launching his own label.
Speaking to Naijaonpoint, he recalled that at the time, his trainer estimated that with a budget of around N2 million, he could acquire the essential tools and rent a modest workspace to start out.
“But when I see the price of just a single industrial machine today, I’m discouraged,” he said.
For many like him, the passion hasn’t faded, but the cost of turning it into a business in Lagos has soared. Today, a serious entry into bespoke shoemaking could require upwards of N5 million, a steep climb in an economy where inflation and unstable exchange rates have pushed even basic materials beyond reach.
“It’s not just about knowing how to make shoes anymore, it’s whether you can even afford to start,” said Oladipupo Olawale, a Lagos-based artisan who runs a small workshop of his own in Mushin.
In a conversation with Naijaonpoint, Olawale explained how the costs have snowballed over the years. From acquiring machines like post-bed sewing machines, stamping presses, and sole cutters, to stocking the first sets of quality leather sheets, setting up a functional shoemaking studio today could gulp over N5 million.
He started his workshop in 2011. Back then, with about N1.3 million, he could get decent machines, rent a space, and buy materials.
“Today, you need far more, and that’s just for a small outfit,” he said.
Another shoemaker, Azeez Abiodun, shared similar concerns. While it’s technically possible to start with around N3 million, he warned that at that budget, you’d likely be renting equipment from other artisans, relying on borrowed tools, and struggling to meet market expectations.
“Back in 2013, an industrial sewing machine cost about N80,000,” Abiodun recalled. “Now, that same machine sells for N400,000 or more. And that’s without factoring in rent, generator, or leather.”
For Abiodun, the cost of imported materials, especially leather and adhesives, has become a major strain. He sells from a small shop in Mushin Market and pays N20,000 monthly for the space that’s N240,000 annually for what he describes as a “tight box with barely enough room to move.”
Olawale also pointed out how the price of basics has skyrocketed.
Olawale also pointed out how the price of basics has skyrocketed.
“In 2011, I could get a pair of Lass soles for N1,500. Today, that same pair is about N12,000,” he said.
The reality for these artisans is that entering the world of shoemaking once a hustle powered by hand tools and grit, now demands capital, connections, and a tough skin for economic volatility.
For aspiring shoemakers like Victory, the dream of setting up a bespoke footwear business now comes with a hefty price tag. According to estimates provided by Oladipupo Olawale and Azeez Abiodun, both practicing shoemakers starting out with a properly equipped workshop in today’s market could cost well over N5 million.
Their breakdown of current prices for essential tools and materials reflects prevailing realities in the market:
These tools form the core of what’s needed for serious production. While Abiodun explained that it’s still possible to start with less, perhaps by renting equipment or limiting output, setting up a full-fledged, independent operation with the capacity for consistent, high-quality work has become significantly more expensive.
For many like Victory, the entry cost highlights not just the demand for skill, but also the capital investment needed to compete in Nigeria’s growing bespoke shoemaking space.
Despite the high entry costs and daily economic pressures, demand for bespoke shoes in Lagos is rising, especially among a younger, urban crowd seeking uniqueness and quality over mass-produced fashion.
“People want something that looks different, shoes they can call their own,” said Azeez Abiodun.
“You’d be surprised how many customers walk in with screenshots from Instagram asking for a remake, or with ideas that they want executed to the last stitch.”
Artisans like Abiodun say this shift is being driven by changing fashion tastes, social media influence, and a growing desire to stand out in formal or semi-casual settings. From brogues and monk straps to leather sandals, the Lagos bespoke scene has evolved into a creative niche where craftsmanship meets personal branding.
“I’ve made shoes for grooms, tech bros, and even pastors who want their initials stamped inside,” Olawale said with a grin.
“It’s more than footwear now, it’s a lifestyle.”
Clients are now more aware of material quality, leather finishes, stitching styles, and even sole types. This means bespoke shoemakers are expected not just to produce good shoes, but to educate clients on leather grades, maintenance, and design options.
This shift in customer expectation has, in turn, raised the bar for artisans, requiring them to invest in better tools, upskill, and in some cases, rebrand entirely to stay relevant. Shoemakers who used to operate from informal roadside sheds now run Instagram pages, take online orders, and offer nationwide delivery, blurring the lines between fashion label and artisan.
But even with this boom in demand, sustaining the business remains a challenge.
“If you don’t price your shoes well, you’ll run at a loss. But price it too high, and some customers will vanish,” said Olawale.
“There’s demand, yes, but balancing it with rising production costs is the real war.”
For many Nigerians who patronize local shoemakers, the allure of bespoke footwear goes beyond fashion. It’s about trust, longevity, and the pride of owning something tailored just for them.
“I’ve used one pair of sandals for over five years,” said Israel, a loyal customer.
“It was handmade from start to finish, real leather, sturdy sole, and exactly the design I asked for. I just clean it and it stays fresh. You won’t get that from factory shoes.”
Customers like Israel aren’t just buying shoes, they’re buying control. From material selection to finishing touches, they’re involved in decisions that most mass-market brands never offer.
“You decide on the colour, the stitching, even how soft the leather should be,” he said. “It’s a different feeling when you know something was made just for you.”
But that freedom also comes with a trade-off: time.
“They told me it would be ready in two weeks. I got it in six,” Israel admitted.